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Stepping up · 8 min read

Moving up from a pony to your first horse: a family guide

Horses and ponies grazing together in a large green field
Illustration: AI-generated image for illustrative purposes.

For many pony families, a day comes when the last 14.2hh pony is too small. A teenager has grown, or a parent wants a horse of their own to ride alongside. Moving up to a horse is a big step, but it does not have to be a frightening one. Here is how to know your rider is ready, and how to choose and buy a good first horse.

Is your rider ready for a horse?

Height is only part of it. A rider is usually ready to move up when most of these are true:

  • They have outgrown their pony in size. Their legs hang well below the pony's tummy, or the pony struggles to carry them. Our guide to the signs your child has outgrown their pony has the full list.
  • They ride well at all paces. They can walk, trot and canter in balance, steer and stop on their own, and stay calm when the pony is fresh or spooks.
  • They have already ridden horses. Lessons on bigger horses at a riding school, or rides on a friend's horse, show them how different a horse feels.
  • They can handle a big animal on the ground. A horse is heavier and stronger than a pony. Leading, tying up, picking out feet and loading all take more confidence.
  • Their instructor agrees. They will give you an honest view.

If your rider is tall but still a little nervous, there is no rush. Many teenagers carry on happily on a big, chunky pony for a while longer. Ponies of 13.3–14.2hh are worth a look before you jump to a horse.

What size horse do you need?

Horses are measured in hands (hh). One hand is 4 inches, measured from the ground to the withers (the bony ridge at the bottom of the neck). Anything over 14.2hh is called a horse. On Pony Search, family horses run from 14.3hh to 17.2hh.

Choose by the rider's body, not their age. Three things matter most:

  • Leg length. Sitting in the saddle, the rider's heel should sit roughly level with the bottom of the horse's belly. If the leg hangs well below, the horse is too small or too narrow. If the leg only reaches halfway down the horse's side, it is probably too big.
  • Height. A tall rider needs a horse long enough in the back and neck to look and feel balanced. Their knee should not poke over the front of the saddle.
  • Weight. A common rough guide is that a horse should carry no more than about 15–20% of its own body weight, counting the rider and the saddle together. A sturdy horse with strong legs and a short back usually carries weight more easily than a fine one of the same height. If you are unsure, ask your vet or instructor.

Why a 15hh cob may suit better than a 16.2hh Thoroughbred

Height on its own tells you very little. A 15hh cob is wide and deep through the body. Horsey people say it "takes up the leg", which means a tall rider's legs wrap around it and the rider looks and feels right. A fine 16.2hh Thoroughbred type is much taller but often much narrower, so a long-legged rider can still look too big for it.

A smaller horse is also easier to get on and less far to fall from. For a first horse, many families find that going only a little bigger than the last pony works best. You can always move up again later.

What makes a good first horse?

A good first horse is one your rider can manage on a bad day, not just a good one. Look for these things:

  • Age and experience. An older horse that has done the job for years is usually a better bet than a young one. Many families look for a horse of about 10 or older.
  • Schooling. "Schooling" means how well trained the horse is. A well-schooled horse answers the rider's signals from their legs, hands and seat without a fuss.
  • Temperament. You want a kind, sensible horse that is easy to catch, shoe, clip and load. Temperament matters more than looks, breeding or talent.
  • Not too green. A "green" horse is young or not fully trained yet. Green horses need an experienced rider to bring them on. A novice rider and a green horse often struggle together.

Types families often look at

Some types of horse are often chosen as a first horse. None of them comes with a promise. Every horse is different, and you are buying that one horse, not its breed.

  • Cobs. Stocky, sturdy horses, often around 14.3–15.3hh. Many are calm and enjoy hacking. Some can be strong or lazy, so always see them ridden.
  • Native crosses. A British or Irish native pony crossed with something bigger, such as a Welsh or Connemara cross. Many are hardy and sensible.
  • Irish Draught crosses. Often a good size for a teenager or an adult, and many have a level head. Some are big and powerful, so check the horse's size and strength suit your rider.

Whatever the advert says, no horse is ever completely safe. Our guide to the "bombproof" pony myth explains why.

What really changes when you move up

A horse is not just a bigger pony. Be ready for these changes:

  • Strength. A horse is much heavier than a pony. If it pulls, spooks or steps on your foot, you feel it.
  • Cost. Most things cost more. A horse eats more hay and feed, needs bigger rugs, and livery can be dearer. Work out the monthly cost before you buy, not after. Our guide to first pony costs lists what to budget for.
  • Tack. Your pony's saddle, bridle and rugs will almost certainly not fit. A saddle that does not fit can hurt a horse, so have a qualified saddle fitter check it. See our guide to tack and kit.
  • Transport. A horse may not fit in your pony trailer, and it weighs more. Check your car can legally and safely tow the extra weight. Our guide to transporting your pony covers the basics.
  • Insurance. Vet fee cover for a horse often costs more than for a pony. You also need cover in case your horse hurts someone or damages something. Read our guide to insurance.
  • Farrier. A horse that needs shoes costs more than a pony that went without. See our guide to the farrier and hoof care.
  • Pony Club. Your rider does not have to leave. Members can ride horses as well as ponies, but some classes and competitions have height limits. Check with your branch.

Keep the pony, sell it or loan it?

There is no right answer. It depends on your family, your money and your pony.

  • Keep it. This works well if a younger brother or sister can ride it, or if the new horse needs a field friend. But you will be paying for two.
  • Sell it. A well-known, honest pony is often just what the next family is looking for, and selling helps pay for the horse. Our guides on writing an advert and pricing your pony will help. You can advertise your pony on Pony Search from £1 with our launch offer for ridden ponies, with no commission.
  • Loan it out. If you cannot bear to sell, a loan keeps the pony within reach and you can have it back. Always put the terms in writing. Our guide to loaning your pony out shows how.

Not sure your rider is ready to own a horse yet? You could take one on loan or share first. It is a lower-risk way to find out. Our guide to loaning, sharing or buying compares the options.

How to try and buy a horse safely

The steps are the same as buying a pony.

  • Ask lots of questions first. Ring the seller before you travel. Ask why they are selling, what the horse does now, and whether it has any health problems or habits you should know about. Our list of questions to ask a seller works for horses too.
  • Take someone who knows. Your rider's instructor is ideal. They should have nothing to gain from the sale.
  • See the horse from the start. Ask the seller not to ride or lunge it before you arrive. Watch it being caught, groomed and tacked up.
  • Watch the seller ride first. Then let your rider try it, and take it out on a hack if you can.
  • Test the things you need. Traffic, loading, being ridden alone, being ridden with others. If it matters to you, see it with your own eyes.
  • Go back a second time. A horse can be quite different on another day.
  • Get a vetting. Use your own vet, not one the seller picks. Our guide to vetting explains what a vet checks.
  • Check the paperwork and pay safely. Every horse must have a passport, and the details should match the horse in front of you. See our guides to passports and microchips and safe payment and paperwork.

Be careful with a horse that is much cheaper than others like it, a seller who rushes you, or anyone who wants a deposit before you have seen the horse. Our guide to scams and red flags has more. Take our viewing checklist with you on the day.

Sellers describe their own horses. We do not check adverts or the horses in them, so always see for yourself and take advice.

Family horses on Pony Search

Pony Search has a Family horses section for horses from 14.3hh to 17.2hh. It is for families moving on from ponies, not a general horse market. You can browse:

Still not sure it is time? Our pony height guide can help you judge whether a bigger pony would do for now.

Take it slowly, buy for the rider you have today, and put temperament first.

Frequently asked questions

How do I know my child is ready to move from a pony to a horse?+

Look at size and skill together. They have outgrown their pony, ride well in walk, trot and canter, stay calm when the pony spooks, and can handle a big animal on the ground. Lessons on bigger horses help, and their instructor should agree. If they are tall but still nervous, a big, chunky pony may do for a while longer.

What size horse do I need?+

Go by the rider's body, not their age. Sitting in the saddle, their heel should be roughly level with the bottom of the horse's belly, and their knee should not poke over the front of the saddle. A common rough guide is that a horse should carry no more than about 15–20% of its own weight, rider and saddle together. Ask your instructor or vet if you are unsure.

Is a taller horse always better for a tall rider?+

No. A 15hh cob is wide and deep, so it "takes up the leg" and a tall rider can look and feel right on it. A fine 16.2hh Thoroughbred type is taller but often narrower. A smaller horse is also easier to get on and less far to fall from.

What makes a good first horse?+

Usually an older horse, often about 10 or more, that is well trained and has done the job you want for years. Look for a kind, sensible nature, and a horse that is easy to catch, shoe and load. Avoid a "green" horse, one that is young or not fully trained, for a novice rider. Cobs, native crosses and Irish Draught crosses are often chosen, but every horse is different.

What changes when you move from a pony to a horse?+

Most things get bigger and cost more: feed, rugs, often livery and insurance. Your pony's tack will almost certainly not fit, the horse may not fit your trailer, and a horse that needs shoes costs more than a pony that went without. A horse is also much stronger, so good handling matters more.

Should we sell our pony when we buy a horse?+

It depends on your family. Keep it if a younger child can ride it or the horse needs a field friend, but you will pay for two. Sell it to help fund the horse, or loan it out with a written agreement if you cannot bear to let it go.

Put it into practice

Browse family horses from 14.3hh to 17.2hh, with honest answers on every advert.

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