A year of pony care: month-by-month seasonal guide

Pony care is not the same in July as it is in January. The seasons drive everything — grass growth, laminitis risk, fly populations, rugging decisions, feeding needs and field conditions. A family that manages its pony the same way all year round will run into trouble. Here is a month-by-month guide to what needs doing, when, and why — so you can plan ahead instead of reacting in a panic.

Spring (March–May): the highest-risk season

Spring is the most dangerous time of year for British native ponies. The grass is surging with sugar after winter, and overweight good-doers are at peak laminitis risk. This is the season that separates prepared owners from unprepared ones.

March

• Laminitis watch begins. As grass starts to grow, restrict grazing for at-risk ponies. Use a bare paddock, track system or grazing muzzle. See our laminitis guide.
• Book spring vet visit for vaccinations, dental check and general health assessment.
• Book farrier — feet may have grown long over winter if farrier visits were less frequent.
• Start fly preparation — check fly rugs and sweet itch rugs for repairs. See our sweet itch guide.
• Weigh-tape — if the pony has gained weight over winter, start a weight management plan now, not in April when grass is already rich.

April

• Peak laminitis risk. Grass is growing fast. Restrict turnout, consider turning out at night (lower sugar overnight), use a grazing muzzle. See our good-doer guide.
• Sweet itch prevention starts now. Put the sweet itch rug on before midges appear, not after. See our sweet itch guide.
• Start worm egg counts — first count of the grazing season. See our worming guide.
• Gradually increase workload after winter — build fitness slowly over 4–6 weeks (see getting your pony fit).
• Check fencing — winter may have damaged posts and rails.

May

• Laminitis risk remains high. Continue grazing restriction. Monitor weight weekly.
• Fly control in full swing — fly rugs, masks, sprays. Stable at dawn and dusk for sweet itch ponies.
• Poo-pick regularly — at least twice a week to control worms and keep fields clean.
• Pony Club activities begin — rallies, camps and competitions start. Check vaccinations are up to date.
• Saddle check — the pony's shape may change as workload increases. Book a saddle fitter.

Summer (June–August): heat, flies and showing

June–July

• Heat management — provide shade in the field. Most native ponies cope with heat if they have shelter and water, but avoid riding in the hottest part of the day.
• Continue fly and sweet itch management.
• Worm egg count — second count of the season.
• Water intake — ensure clean, fresh water at all times. A pony can drink 20–30 litres in hot weather.
• Sunburn — ponies with pink noses (especially coloureds and some breeds) can sunburn. Use a UV-protective face mask or sunblock on pink areas.
• Field management — grass may be sparse in dry spells; supplement with hay if needed.

August

• Tapeworm test — saliva or blood test. See our worming guide.
• Start planning for autumn — review your winter feed and bedding supplies, and book deliveries before demand peaks.
• Continue sweet itch management — the season usually runs through September.
• Weight check — is the pony still at a healthy score? Summer can go either way — some ponies lose weight in the heat, others stay fat.

Autumn (September–November): the second laminitis risk

September

• Second laminitis risk. Autumn grass flushes as nights get cooler and dew heavier. Reapply grazing restriction for at-risk ponies.
• Worm egg count — third count of the season.
• Farrier — feet may grow faster in the wetter weather.
• Start thinking about rugs — but do not rug prematurely. Most natives do not need rugs until it is genuinely cold.

October

• Mud fever prevention begins. As fields get wet, start drying legs thoroughly and applying barrier cream. See our mud fever guide.
• Reduce turnout if fields are poaching — consider part-time stabling to protect the ground and the pony's legs.
• Order winter hay and bedding — do not leave it until November when prices rise and supplies run low.
• Body condition score — the pony should enter winter at a healthy weight, not fat. Fat ponies are laminitis cases waiting for spring.

November

• Encysted redworm treatment — discuss with your vet. This is usually given in late autumn/early winter. See our worming guide.
• Rugging decisions — start rugging only when the pony genuinely needs it. See below for guidance.
• Check stables — ensure good ventilation, no draughts at floor level, and that roofing is sound before the worst weather.
• Flu and tetanus booster if due — many families combine this with the autumn vet visit.

Winter (December–February): survival and maintenance

December

• Water management — break ice on water troughs twice daily. Consider a trough heater. A pony that cannot drink will impaction colic. See our colic guide.
• Increase hay — if grass is sparse or the pony is stabled more, provide extra hay. Digestion generates heat — hay keeps the pony warm from the inside.
• Deep bedding — a thick bed provides insulation and comfort in cold weather.
• Check feet daily — wet conditions promote thrush. Pick out feet and check for smell and discharge.

January–February

• Weight monitoring — some ponies lose weight in winter (especially older ones and poor doers). Increase feed if the pony is genuinely losing condition. Others stay fat even in winter — these do not need extra feed.
• Continue ice management.
• Exercise — riding in winter is fine if you have safe footing and daylight. Schooling in an arena, hacking in daylight, or lunging are all options. Do not ride on frozen ground — it can cause concussion and slipping.
• Plan for spring — if your pony is overweight, start a weight management plan now. Do not wait for the grass to surge in March.
• Book spring vet, farrier and dentist — get ahead of the rush.
• PPID testing for older ponies — if your pony is 15+, consider a winter blood test for Cushing's. See our common illnesses guide.

The rugging question

Rugging is one of the most debated topics in pony care. The basic principles:

• Do not rug because you feel cold. Ponies have a much lower comfort threshold than humans. A native pony with a full winter coat is comfortable at temperatures that would have you reaching for a duvet.
• Most native ponies do not need rugs if they have a full coat, shelter and adequate forage. Their coats are designed to stand up and trap warm air.
• Rug if: the pony is clipped (it has lost its natural insulation), is thin or old, has health issues, or is standing in cold rain with no shelter (wet coats lose their insulating properties).
• Over-rugging causes problems: sweating under a heavy rug causes skin infections, weight gain (the pony is not burning calories to keep warm), and discomfort. A sweaty pony is an over-rugged pony.
• Use the lightest rug that does the job. A lightweight turnout rug (0g fill) keeps rain off without overheating. Add fill (100g, 200g) only when temperatures genuinely drop.
• Check under the rug daily — lift it and feel the pony's chest. If it is sweaty, the rug is too heavy. If it is cold, you may need more.

A quick-reference seasonal checklist

Next steps

• Read our daily routine guide for the day-to-day care that underpins all of this.
• Understand laminitis prevention: laminitis guide and good-doer management.
• Get the full cost picture, including seasonal variations: what a first pony really costs.

The seasons are the rhythm of pony ownership. Plan ahead, anticipate the risks before they arrive, and your pony will stay healthy and comfortable all year round. The families that struggle are the ones who react in April — the ones who thrive are the ones who started planning in February. Two winter jobs worth reading up on in advance: clipping a working pony and keeping an eye on body condition through the cold months.